Francesca Bianchi - Under My Skin - niche perfume
Accords: leathery, spicy, powdery, woody, animalic
Mood: erotic, intimate, animalic, mysterious
Mysterious and seductive, soft and carnal at the same time, Under my Skin is my interpretation of the animalic theme. Softened by precious iris butter, this emotional fragrance is human and intimate, as if it emanates from your own skin.
30 ml Extrait de parfum
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Notes: grapefruit, lavender, black pepper, spices, bulgarian rose, carnation, iris butter, musk, castoreum, ambergris, leather accord, costus, tonka bean, tolu balsam, peru balsam, sandal mysore, vanilla, treemoss.
This is an extrait de parfum, so use sparingly as the concentration is 25%. It has a great longevity (an average of 12h)
The origin of Under My Skin
Under My Skin is my interpretation of the animalic theme. I was charmed by strong animalic scents, and I tried to do my own; but I had to realize that what I like in other’s creations is not necessarily what I like to create myself.
So after adding animalic materials going into the heavy or sweet or stable-like direction, I had to eliminate them little by little, and arrive to this solution which suits me the best: a leathery, slightly animalic, powdery one, a velvety and elegant take. It goes along with my personality and my style and when I finally realized that this was my way, I was finally happy and relieved.
The name comes from a conversation with an artist and fragrance lover, who said it is as if the scent emanates from the skin. This concept of ‘Under My Skin’ reinforced my path of going into something more subtly ’human’ than overtly ‘animal’. The core of the scent is a combination of animalic and leathery notes tamed by iris butter (at 15% irone!). After working on this core, I worked on the base notes, made up by Tolu Balsam, Peru Balsam, Tonka Bean and several kind of woods.
Last step of the job was the opening, where I used grapefruit and lavender. I used to be a ‘Lavender hater’: but here it plays a subtle and elegant part. I was amazed how nicely it matched this scent, adding brightness and elegance.
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Perfumer Francesca Bianchi creates exceptional, stunning perfumes that express her deepest emotions. Having been inspired to make perfumes by the many places she has visited and worked in the world, such as Marrakesh, Amsterdam and Florence, this former art history graduate and art book publisher now oversees the entire perfume creation process. From blending and sourcing own ingredients to bottling, packaging and distribution.
A unique tradition
INSPIRED BY MEMORIES
A sensualist and art historian, Bianchi is drawn to the more expressive and emotional aspects of perfume; she believes that any perfume that evokes an emotion or a memory is better than one that simply pays homage to a certain material.
She is personally inspired by memories of childhood scents, smells of various places, face creams, people, even dreams - her true measure as an artist is that she expresses these feelings most clearly through her perfumes without losing any of the original intensity. Her perfumes are like strong, mysterious, sensual and hungry creatures that completely devour their wearer.
DESIRE TO SPARK AN EMOTION
Francesca is mostly inspired by the power of what it means to be human, by the wish to connect with people’s inner life, the desire to spark an emotion in them and make them feel at home in their own bodies, offer solace, or just a quick fix for a bad day. Olfactory signals travel with no mediation – just in a couple of synapses – to the limbic system, the place assigned to memory and emotions in our brain. As a result, the reaction triggered by the sense of smell is biologically inescapable, not liable to manipulation. It therefore fully satisfies our longing for authenticity.
Her perfumes have gained a reputation for being sensual and provocative, probably as a consequence of their focus on human nature and intimacy.